Brows frame the eye. They change the expression of a face more than any other feature, and they are the one thing most people draw themselves, in a hurry, every morning, in a bathroom mirror.
What it is, and what it is not
Eyebrow micropigmentation is an aesthetic procedure in which pigment is deposited into the superficial layers of the skin to simulate hair or fill sparse areas. It is not a tattoo: the pigments are a different kind, they do not turn blue or green over time, and they are applied far more shallowly. Which is why the effect fades gradually rather than staying forever.
That fading is an advantage, not a flaw. Brow fashions change, and your face changes too. A result that lasts around a year lets you correct course; a permanent tattoo does not.
The same logic of pigment and depth applies to the scalp: to densify thinning areas, see scalp micropigmentation.
Hair-stroke or powdered
Two techniques with different results, and the choice depends on your skin and the look you want.
Hair-stroke (microblading)
I draw individual strokes following the direction of real hair. It is the most natural technique up close and the right one if your brow has a good shape but specific gaps. It works best on normal to dry skin; on very oily skin the strokes tend to blur and lose definition sooner.
Powdered finish
Instead of strokes, a soft shading that looks like a lightly made-up brow. Better suited to oily skin, to brows with many gaps, and to anyone already used to filling brows with pencil who likes that look. It usually lasts longer than hair-stroke.
There is also a combination of the two, and in many cases that is what makes sense: strokes at the head of the brow, shading through the body and tail.
The design is the important part
Before any needle touches skin, we draw. I measure the proportions of your face, mark the start, arch and end points, and draw the brow in pencil. We only go ahead once you agree with what you see in the mirror.
This is where visagism comes in. The fashionable brow may be exactly the wrong one for you: a high arch on an already long face unbalances it; a tail set too low closes an eye that already falls. The right shape is the one that balances your face, not the one on Instagram.
How the session goes
Allow 2 to 3 hours. Once the design is approved I apply topical anaesthetic and work in layers, showing you the progress as we go. Discomfort is low. Most people describe it as a scratching sensation.
For the first few days the colour looks more intense and darker than the final result. That is normal and temporary: the pigment lightens considerably as it heals. Do not judge the result in the first week.
Healing and the retouch
Healing takes around two weeks, during which a fine crust forms and must not be picked off. I give you written aftercare: keep the area dry for the first days, no pool, sauna, direct sun or exfoliants.
The retouch, 30 to 45 days later, is part of the process, not a correction of a mistake. It is where intensity is adjusted and anything the skin did not retain is filled in. Only after the retouch is the work finished.
Who should not have it done
Some situations mean waiting, or advise against the procedure altogether: pregnancy and breastfeeding, uncontrolled diabetes, active skin conditions in the area, ongoing cancer treatment, recent isotretinoin use, a tendency to keloid scarring. If you take anticoagulants or have any relevant health condition, tell me before we book.
I would rather lose a booking than perform a procedure that should not be performed. Be straight with me and I will be honest about whether this is the right moment.
Hair-stroke and powdered, side by side
| Hair-stroke (microblading) | Powdered finish | |
|---|---|---|
| Result | Individual strokes following the direction of real hair | Soft shading, the look of a lightly filled brow |
| Suited to | Normal to dry skin | Oily skin |
| Best for | A well-shaped brow with occasional gaps | Many gaps, or anyone who already fills with pencil |
| Definition over time | On oily skin the strokes blur faster | Usually lasts longer |
| Retouch | At 30 to 45 days, for both techniques | |
The brow that is in fashion may be exactly the wrong one for you. The right shape is the one that balances your face, not the one on Instagram.
Larissa Wendler, brow micropigmentation specialist
References
- ECHA: Tattoo inks and permanent make-up: since 4 January 2022, entry 75 of Annex XVII to REACH restricts more than 4,000 substances in tattoo and permanent make-up pigments.
- Regulation (EU) 2020/2081: full text of the restriction, with the derogation for Pigment Blue 15:3 and Pigment Green 7 applicable since 4 January 2023.
